Niagara-on-the-Lake
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, is the loveliest city in Canada. To visit the historic city is to step back in time. Streets and yards abound in a profusion of flowers. In the area are numerous award-winning wineries, and orchards growing peaches, pears, apples and plums sell fresh fruits and vegetables to passers-by at roadside stands.
This garden city’s scenery and historic attractions garnered national attention when it won "The Prettiest City in Canada" award in 1996.
Strategically situated at the mouth of the mighty Niagara River, Niagara-on-the-Lake played a key role — it was virtually erased by the burning of the town by the Americans — in the War of 1812. Later rebuilt, Niagara-on-the-Lake became an active commercial centre, with a busy shipping and ship-building industry. Historic sites of the day include the McFarland House, Butler’s Barracks, Fort George and Fort Mississagua.
Today, downtown streets in Niagara-on-the-Lake are very crowded during the theater season, which runs from April through November. Tourists peer through shop windows, slowly stroll past magnificent flower gardens and enjoy the old-time atmosphere.
Beauty, however, is not the only reason that this town of about 13,000 people receives 3 million visitors each year. Although my wife Carla and I go for the Shaw Festival, a collection of plays presented by the second largest repertory company in North America, there are many other notable attractions.
Theater
The play’s the thing. There are two small intimate and one large theater in town, and the company of actors is considered one of the five great repertory companies in the English speaking world. They produce plays by Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries, along with works done between 1856 and 1950 with an occasional later play included. Eleven plays are usually in production. Most shows play to full houses, especially during the summer.
George Bernard Shaw in Downtown Niagara-on-the-Lake
Biking
Bikes are readily available; we had five at our cottage. The level terrain makes riding easy, and you can get from one part of town to the other quickly. This is a real plus because parking can be a problem near the downtown area.
The bike trails are outstanding. You can go from your room to Niagara Falls on a scenic trail along the Niagara River. The river flows from where the water from Lake Erie drops 270 feet over Niagara Falls to where it enters Lake Ontario. On a bike, it’s a trip of 15 miles with only moderate climbing.
The falls, although worthy of a visit, take only a short while to visit unless you choose to walk behind the falls or take a boat trip up and into the mist. Parking is difficult to find if you’re driving and the crowds are massive. Surrounding the falls are the same ticky-tacky tourist shops one would expect to encounter at the Lake of the Ozarks.
While biking or hiking, history buffs will find much to enjoy as frequent signs indicate the historical significance of spots along the roadways. Guided walking tours of the historical sights and buildings in the Niagara-on-the-Lake area are available or one can also get a booklet and venture off alone.
Touring the restoration of Fort George is entertaining. The fort has been rebuilt to its original stature prior to the War of 1812, complete with jail and musty barracks. American soldiers had captured and burned the fort and town. In retaliation, British troops burned Buffalo and recaptured the fort. Why they bothered, I wouldn’t know.
Daily, the resident re-enactors at the fort put on demonstrations. The day I was there they did close order drills, the drum and fife band marched and there was a demonstration of musket loading and firing. Afterwards, children in the audience could hardly wait to go up and touch the guns.
Climate and wine
Niagara-on-the-Lake is between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. The lakes modify the temperature so that the area does not have the extremes of our northern states like Minnesota and North Dakota. In the summer, temperatures are mild and pleasant.
Because it is at the same latitude as Cannes, France, and Florence, Italy, it is, to my surprise, a wine growing area.
The retreat of the ice-age glaciers left behind deposits of clay, loam, sand and gravel that are enriched with minerals, ideal for vineyards. Local vineyards account for 84 percent of Canada’s wine production.
Wine tours and tasting are available at the 11 local wineries. One could spend a very pleasant day going from one winery to the other.
Although machines now pick most grapes, special icewine grapes get individual treatment. Pickers wait until the sugar rich grapes are frozen, then pick them and squeeze them one at a time with a hand held winepress. The care taken is reflected in the price: $45 per bottle.
Eating and sleeping
There are no franchise restaurants at Niagara-on-the-Lake, but a fine choice of local cuisine. The hotels are small and intimate and retain a historical charm and ambiance. Most of us who visit, however, stay in bed and breakfasts, which abound, or rent cottages. Many of the bed and breakfasts are houses built after the War of 1812 and later refurbished for tourists.
For those who want luxury accommodations, the Prince of Wales Hotel, which was built in 1864, underwent a $24 million restoration. Rates strike me as a bit pricey at $375 to $795 a night during tourist season. While celebrities choose to stay here, the management said that every person is a VIP. It’s wise to make a reservation if you want to enjoy their famous English tea from 2 to 5 p.m.
The bed and breakfasts add charm to the city.
Other sights and sounds
Niagara-on-the-Lake is a something-for-everyone kind of place. We enjoyed the butterfly conservatory that has 200 different species; of which, 40 were flying around during the time we visited. There are festivals going on from April through October. They include a strawberry festival, cherry harvest festival, peach celebration, arts and crafts sales, and so forth. Like Columbia, there is ample green space and recreational lands, including a number of terrific golf courses.
Carla and I enjoy the area enough that this was our third visit. It’s relaxing and charming in an "Old World" fashion. It’s on our list of places that we will return to again.
Niagara-on-the-lake has been called the loveliest city in Canada.
